Day 9 – remainder of 1000++km by bus Wednesday 11/04/2012 Ouarzazate – Tchika - Marrakech – Casablanca – Tangiers - Tarifa

It was a little bit tricky getting the bike onto the bus, why they wouldn’t let me just lay it on its side I will never understand. In any case I was pleased that it was loaded and that things should be fine now. A police-man then entered the bus and asked whose bike it was. Oh dear I thought, what now. Luckily all he wanted was to see my registration document, passport and temporary importation papers – I never did get asked for my insurance thankfully!

I sat next to a local Ouarzazate man ‘Saiid’ who explained in French that he’s on his way to Tangiers to find some building work. He was a nice guy and insisted on keeping me well fed and informed throughout the journey. I must have looked like a total div with all my motorbike gear/boots sitting on a bus.

The bus took the Tiz’n Tchika mountain pass that I was so looking forward to riding. The pass went on for hours and the coach driver was obviously enjoying himself on the bends. Unfortunately at least three of the passengers sitting around me didn’t enjoy it quite so much and started puking for much of the remaining 13 hours on the coach… Anyway, after a quick tour of several Moroccan cities including Marrakech, Rabat (the capital) and the very uninteresting Casablanca, the bike and I were safely delivered to the bus station in Tangiers.

Managed to drag the bike of the coach pretty quickly before 10’s of unnecessary ‘helpers’ got involved. Whilst re-assembling the bike and collating all of my gear and bags I re-enquired about the distance to the port. I was told 5km which seemed about right considering that I recognised a petrol station where I filled-up after having first got off the ferry into Tangiers. Anyway €10 later I’d managed to half squeeze the XR400 into a tiny Suzuki van (it was literally hanging-off the back, secured by some rope that I happened to have on me) and I was dropped off in the port at customs. All the paperwork was done quickly and efficiently as soon after I was on the 13:00 ferry back to Tarifa.

The wife and kids were waiting for me at the port in Tarifa and were obviously glad to see me back in one piece. Also, it was handy they were there to help me push the bike back up the hill to the apartment where my car / trailer were waiting to whisk us all back home! The journey home, whilst long, was a doddle and it was great to be back with the family. This adventure travel stuff is fun, but it’s great to be back home – I suppose these kind of trips make you appreciate what you have. That said, one day I will return as I have some unfinished business……..

Day 8 – 1000++km by bus Tuesday 10/04/2012 Ouarzazate – Marrakech – Casablanca – Rabat - Tangiers

Peter and his wife Zineb who run the Bikershome in Ouarzazate are real stars and I would have been stuck without their help and really value their hospitality. Google Bikershome in Ouarzazate – a great place to stay, do a motorbike tour or seek help! Last night we were joined by two fellow bikers from the UK (Gary and his girlfriend) who turned-up on an 1100 GS. They spent the night at the Bikershome and were good company. Zineb prepared the best meal I’ve ever had in Morocco which all of us really enjoyed.

After supper, Peter drove me around town so that we could find a suitable bus to get me and the bike to Tangiers. The big CTM company were willing to do it, but with a bus change in Casablanca and there being no guarantee of space for the bike on the next bus. The very helpful CTM employee suggested that we go to the main bus station and try a company called ‘Diana’ travel who had a coach going direct to Tangiers the next evening (tonight).

Anyway, for 500MAD (€50) ‘Diana’ sold me a ticket for the 9pm coach and seem to think that squeezing on the bike won’t be a problem as long as it only has one cylinder (CB125 twin people should worry whilst DR800 owners are laughing). Sounds almost too good to be true as they probably imagine that I have a moped, let’s see…..

Well, drained the bike of petrol and took it to a local jet wash garage to get it looking ‘presentable’ for the coach. Peter then helped me to load the bike onto the back of his pick-up and off we went to the bus station. An army of helpers assisted me in getting the bike squeezed onto the bus but I was forced to remove yet more of the stuff on my bike to get it to fit which was a bit hectic as I was worried that the bus wouldn’t wait. Still, it’s on now but I will have a little bit or re-assembly to do at the bus station in Tangier followed by a 6km push to the port…..

Day 7 – 228km Monday 09/04/2012 Todra Gorge – Ait Benhaddou – Ouarzazate

Had a crap nights sleep as it was freezing, well about 4C actually, which was probably down to the fact that my campsite was still 1500m above sea-level. In addition, there was the constant noise of donkeys making the most awful racket – I hate to think what was being done to them.

Anyway, have chosen to head West to see the sights and then to gradually make my way back to the North in time for a Thursday ferry back to Tarifa if possible…..

Got to Ouarzazate without incident. Whilst the bike seems to start and ride fine, it does seem very noisy as though the valve clearances are miles out. Hopefully I don’t have a problem with the cylinder-head or timing chain (have valve clearances checked and a new cam-chain tensioner fitted recently) but I have been taking it steady just in case. Could get it looked at here, but hopefully it’s just my imagination so I’ll keep on truckin’ after lunch to see Ait Benhaddou. Speaking of lunch, goes to show how accommodating the locals are. I sat down in a Café and asked for some food. They explained that they don’t serve food as they are a Café but if I like they can rustle me up an omelette. I saw the girl the runs the place quickly nip out to a local shop and 10 mins later I was served a great ham omelette straight from the frying-pan. I enquired about a fork (which they didn’t have being a café) and ate the food with a miniature cake fork. They only charged about €2 including 2l of water and mint-tea (Berber Whiskey). I was feeling generous so left a tip of 50p being the big spender that I am.

Got to Ait Benhaddou, snapped a couple of photos and then struggled to re-start the bike. At this point I realised that the bike problem was serious. The rattle became epic and I lost power in a big way. Figured I had a big valve / head problem so I turned the bike around and limped the 35km back to Ouarzazate. Here I found the local Tourism Office where I asked for help in locating a Dutch guy (Peter) who runs ‘Bikershome’ – I had his number but couldn’t get through. The very helpful staff managed to call him – he was out in the desert himself doing some recon. Eventually he managed to call me back and gave me directions to his place where we took a look at the bike in his garage. I was about to fire the bike up to get it jet-washed when essentially the motor seized and couldn’t be turned-over. I suspect that I’ve dropped a valve so it’s probably not worth faffing about with the bike here as I won’t have the time / parts / cash to get it sorted out here.

Now just discussing how to get the bike back to Tangiers. It’s €1000 for recovery on the back of a pick-up (1000km) so I’m looking to strip the bike and somehow get it and me onto a bus……..