The Damage

Well, finally got around to removing the cylinder head yesterday to see what the damage is. Here's my theory on what I reckon happened......

1). Cam chain tensioner stopped tentioning the cam chain for some reason. This is particularly annoying as I only had it replaced recently (by a proper bike garage). Check out the photo - this is how I found it when I removed it.
2). Cam chain flailed around sometimes hitting the rocker cover (some scuff marks inside the cover) and generally slapping around hence the increasingly loud rattle that I got during my trip. Check out the photo of how loose the cam-chain is (this is before I removed the tensioner).
3). At some point, despite taking it very steady, the cam chain must have jumped a cog or two thus messing-up the valve timing and eventually making the valves hit the piston slightly. See photos of underside of head / valves.
4). Exhaust valves bent slightly from making contact with the piston and no longer make a seal and possibly is what made the engine effectively seized. You can actually see daylight through the exhaust port so the exhaust valves are not sealing at all. See photos of valves.
5). On the plus-side, the piston / cylinder look perfect (other than a lot of carbon on the piston). The bore is smooth, not glazed or scored so I reckon that that the piston / rings / bore, etc. are all OK and can be left.
6). Oddly, I seem to have 3 metal head gaskets - is this normal?
7). So I reckon that I need someone to fit / grind some new valves into the head for me, I'll probably need a new cam-chain-tensioner to be safe and then it's just a case or putting it all back together, setting all the timing marks up properly, etc.
8). Incidentally, the cam-shaft looks perfect, no scoring/marks/grooves and all well withing manuafacturer's tolerances according to my micrometer. Similarly the camshaft bearings look fine and the bit where the cam-shaft runs in the head looks good too - again no scoring/marking/grooves, etc.

Will let you know when (if) I have it running again.

Day 9 – remainder of 1000++km by bus Wednesday 11/04/2012 Ouarzazate – Tchika - Marrakech – Casablanca – Tangiers - Tarifa

It was a little bit tricky getting the bike onto the bus, why they wouldn’t let me just lay it on its side I will never understand. In any case I was pleased that it was loaded and that things should be fine now. A police-man then entered the bus and asked whose bike it was. Oh dear I thought, what now. Luckily all he wanted was to see my registration document, passport and temporary importation papers – I never did get asked for my insurance thankfully!

I sat next to a local Ouarzazate man ‘Saiid’ who explained in French that he’s on his way to Tangiers to find some building work. He was a nice guy and insisted on keeping me well fed and informed throughout the journey. I must have looked like a total div with all my motorbike gear/boots sitting on a bus.

The bus took the Tiz’n Tchika mountain pass that I was so looking forward to riding. The pass went on for hours and the coach driver was obviously enjoying himself on the bends. Unfortunately at least three of the passengers sitting around me didn’t enjoy it quite so much and started puking for much of the remaining 13 hours on the coach… Anyway, after a quick tour of several Moroccan cities including Marrakech, Rabat (the capital) and the very uninteresting Casablanca, the bike and I were safely delivered to the bus station in Tangiers.

Managed to drag the bike of the coach pretty quickly before 10’s of unnecessary ‘helpers’ got involved. Whilst re-assembling the bike and collating all of my gear and bags I re-enquired about the distance to the port. I was told 5km which seemed about right considering that I recognised a petrol station where I filled-up after having first got off the ferry into Tangiers. Anyway €10 later I’d managed to half squeeze the XR400 into a tiny Suzuki van (it was literally hanging-off the back, secured by some rope that I happened to have on me) and I was dropped off in the port at customs. All the paperwork was done quickly and efficiently as soon after I was on the 13:00 ferry back to Tarifa.

The wife and kids were waiting for me at the port in Tarifa and were obviously glad to see me back in one piece. Also, it was handy they were there to help me push the bike back up the hill to the apartment where my car / trailer were waiting to whisk us all back home! The journey home, whilst long, was a doddle and it was great to be back with the family. This adventure travel stuff is fun, but it’s great to be back home – I suppose these kind of trips make you appreciate what you have. That said, one day I will return as I have some unfinished business……..

Day 8 – 1000++km by bus Tuesday 10/04/2012 Ouarzazate – Marrakech – Casablanca – Rabat - Tangiers

Peter and his wife Zineb who run the Bikershome in Ouarzazate are real stars and I would have been stuck without their help and really value their hospitality. Google Bikershome in Ouarzazate – a great place to stay, do a motorbike tour or seek help! Last night we were joined by two fellow bikers from the UK (Gary and his girlfriend) who turned-up on an 1100 GS. They spent the night at the Bikershome and were good company. Zineb prepared the best meal I’ve ever had in Morocco which all of us really enjoyed.

After supper, Peter drove me around town so that we could find a suitable bus to get me and the bike to Tangiers. The big CTM company were willing to do it, but with a bus change in Casablanca and there being no guarantee of space for the bike on the next bus. The very helpful CTM employee suggested that we go to the main bus station and try a company called ‘Diana’ travel who had a coach going direct to Tangiers the next evening (tonight).

Anyway, for 500MAD (€50) ‘Diana’ sold me a ticket for the 9pm coach and seem to think that squeezing on the bike won’t be a problem as long as it only has one cylinder (CB125 twin people should worry whilst DR800 owners are laughing). Sounds almost too good to be true as they probably imagine that I have a moped, let’s see…..

Well, drained the bike of petrol and took it to a local jet wash garage to get it looking ‘presentable’ for the coach. Peter then helped me to load the bike onto the back of his pick-up and off we went to the bus station. An army of helpers assisted me in getting the bike squeezed onto the bus but I was forced to remove yet more of the stuff on my bike to get it to fit which was a bit hectic as I was worried that the bus wouldn’t wait. Still, it’s on now but I will have a little bit or re-assembly to do at the bus station in Tangier followed by a 6km push to the port…..

Day 7 – 228km Monday 09/04/2012 Todra Gorge – Ait Benhaddou – Ouarzazate

Had a crap nights sleep as it was freezing, well about 4C actually, which was probably down to the fact that my campsite was still 1500m above sea-level. In addition, there was the constant noise of donkeys making the most awful racket – I hate to think what was being done to them.

Anyway, have chosen to head West to see the sights and then to gradually make my way back to the North in time for a Thursday ferry back to Tarifa if possible…..

Got to Ouarzazate without incident. Whilst the bike seems to start and ride fine, it does seem very noisy as though the valve clearances are miles out. Hopefully I don’t have a problem with the cylinder-head or timing chain (have valve clearances checked and a new cam-chain tensioner fitted recently) but I have been taking it steady just in case. Could get it looked at here, but hopefully it’s just my imagination so I’ll keep on truckin’ after lunch to see Ait Benhaddou. Speaking of lunch, goes to show how accommodating the locals are. I sat down in a Café and asked for some food. They explained that they don’t serve food as they are a Café but if I like they can rustle me up an omelette. I saw the girl the runs the place quickly nip out to a local shop and 10 mins later I was served a great ham omelette straight from the frying-pan. I enquired about a fork (which they didn’t have being a café) and ate the food with a miniature cake fork. They only charged about €2 including 2l of water and mint-tea (Berber Whiskey). I was feeling generous so left a tip of 50p being the big spender that I am.

Got to Ait Benhaddou, snapped a couple of photos and then struggled to re-start the bike. At this point I realised that the bike problem was serious. The rattle became epic and I lost power in a big way. Figured I had a big valve / head problem so I turned the bike around and limped the 35km back to Ouarzazate. Here I found the local Tourism Office where I asked for help in locating a Dutch guy (Peter) who runs ‘Bikershome’ – I had his number but couldn’t get through. The very helpful staff managed to call him – he was out in the desert himself doing some recon. Eventually he managed to call me back and gave me directions to his place where we took a look at the bike in his garage. I was about to fire the bike up to get it jet-washed when essentially the motor seized and couldn’t be turned-over. I suspect that I’ve dropped a valve so it’s probably not worth faffing about with the bike here as I won’t have the time / parts / cash to get it sorted out here.

Now just discussing how to get the bike back to Tangiers. It’s €1000 for recovery on the back of a pick-up (1000km) so I’m looking to strip the bike and somehow get it and me onto a bus……..

Day 6 – 232km Sunday 08/04/2012 Nekob (K’nob) – Tazazert – Dades Gorge – Todra Gorge

Wow, what a long and exhausting day! Did so much piste work on rocks that I feel battered and bruised with all of my muscles aching. Had a great breakfast at the auberge (and even better traditional food the night before) and set-out with some basic directions from the kind owner.

Things didn’t start well and I ended-up a long way off piste, bashed my knee on a huge flying rock and had to back-track many km’s. After this false start (but I did get to see loads of nice places) the proper track from Nekob to Tazazert started-off really well and it was amazing to see the remote communities. All the people lived near the river and the land was well utilised for crops and vegetables.

The road soon started to deteriorate as the track climbed high-up into the mountains. 4x4’s were going about 3km as it was so bad in places. That said, I saw three Citroen 2CVs at the top so it couldn’t have been that bad. Still, the views were really amazing but my slow progress did worry me. Things improved greatly on the downward slope and eventually tarmac appeared – it was very welcome after the jagged volcanic rocks.

The views were equally stunning as I neared Boumalne Dades with perfect snow-capped mountain peaks in the distance. After a quick refuel I decided to blast down the Dades Gorge. It was a great road with more stunning views and brilliant corners that had my knobbly tyres screaming for mercy. At this point I met-up with a couple of Slovakian guys on kitted-out BMW 1200GS’s. We stopped for a Coke and I showed them the piste that I wanted to take as a ‘short-cut’ to Ait-Hani and the Todra Gorge. They were up for the piste and the café owner borrowed a moped and guided us the couple of km’s to the start of the piste just outside of Msemrir.

It certainly wasn’t an easy route but the Slovak guys were excellent riders and made rapid progress on their heavy machines. I was very tired at this stage and dropped the bike when we stopped to put on warmer clothing. I also struggled to restart the bike a couple of times – I suspect that the 2800m altitude and Afriquia petrol didn’t help me or the bike. Anyway, we motored on but it seem to take forever to complete the piste especially seeing as it looked so short on the map.

The amount of children and old women appearing out of nowhere to beg or sell you stuff you don’t want beggared belief considering how remote a place this seemed. It’s common for kids to ask for a pen or for older people to ask for a cigarette or even money, but these people seemed more desperate and small kids will literally run-out right in front of you. Anyway, at one point this old begging lady came up to us as we stopped for a drink of water. One of the Slovakian guys gave her a €20 note. I was amazed by this generous gesture but even more so when she kept begging for more and started showing us the hole in her shoe. I can only assume she hadn’t realised the value of her gift from a total stranger, or maybe she was just out to get as much as possible.

At this point the Slovakians (never did get their names) suggested that I rough camp with them in a place they know and then we tackle the long piste that leads to the Cirque de Jaffar together. Whilst this was a route that I had planned to do, I still wanted to see the Todra Gorge and I was starting to worry a bit about the bike which seemed to be rattling more than ever. It was sad as they were excellent company but I think that I’ll save the Cirque de Jaffar for another day.

Not to self, if animals are standing by the roadside and facing away from the road then gas it, but if they’re facing towards the road then expect anything!

The Todra Gorge was equally stunning as the Dades but much more focussed and ‘touristy’. The steep, narrow gorge sides looked amazing – at times it felt as though you were riding into a dead-end with a rock wall in front of you. I rode on a little until I was a bit further down the Gorge and camped in a very civilised campsite with great views of the Gorge walls. Anyway, some Asda Tomato Pasta mixed with a packet of Beef Noodles and I think it’s time for bed.

Day 5 – 224km Saturday 07/04/2012 Tazzarine – ? – Zagora – Nekob (K’nob)

Set out nice and early to find the piste to Zagora. It all started well but I soon came across another muddy river so took another more Easterly piste that was fine although I did worry that I’d become lost again. The clutch felt very odd so I got my tools out and adjusted it on the track – think the cable is stretching and may be on its way out.

Anyway, the piste was good. There was a very rocky and hilly section which then turned into an excellent smooth and wide dirt track that was arrow straight and had great views. Finally got to Zagora which is a busy end of the road/edge of the desert town full of opportunists looking to make a quick buck. Had a great lunch and then headed off to take the obligatory photo of the ’52 Days to Timbuktu by Camel’ sign.

Ended-up doing a circle back towards where my day had started, taking the lovely tarmac road up the Draa Valley – a real oasis bringing life into the heart of the desert. I got to Nekob without incident where I planned to find the route, via a mountain piste, to the Dades valley. This short-cut looked excellent on the map as it’s a very long way around on tarmac. As I arrived in the village, I knew the clutch was not right so as I headed out of town I checked into a remote auberge which looked very plain on the outside but was superb inside the sombre shell. Anyway, after some mint tea and a good chat with the owner and his cousin, I got to work on the clutch. As I took the clutch lever off, the cable snapped! Amazingly I had a spare with me and some tools so managed to change it myself in less than 30 minutes (after some swearing and cursing). All good now and enjoying good Berber drum music, food and hospitality.

Day 4 – 272km Friday 06/04/2012 Merzouga – Taouz – Ouzina – Remlia - lost - Tazzarine

Had my first decent night of sleep in the Auberge Familiale chez Belkacem a Merzouga. The kind owner let me park the filthy bike in the reception area. Had some good food last night and watched the sun set over the Saharan sands. Feeling refreshed and energised I made my way to the end of the tarmac and the piste to Zagora…….

What a tough day. Set off for Zagora as planned but ballsed-up in the first village of Taouz and had to pay a kiddie on a push-bike 50p to guide me back onto the piste. Not a good start. The track was fine, some stony and some sandy parts but I got to the next village of Ouzina quickly and with no problems. From here I was pointed in the right direction for the next village of Remlia. Unfortunately, as I was leaving the village, I hit a small muddy river crossing which I chose to tackle at speed. All went well until I hit the other bank, wobbled and fell-off after a few metres. No damage was done to man or machine but it was tough getting the bike back up as it was firmly embedded in the mud. Just as I was about to set-off again, a couple of guys turned-up on mopeds and said the road ahead was impassable due to the un-seasonally high water levels. For another 70p I was guided safely out of Dodge.

On the rocky piste towards Remlia I was told by several 4x4 drivers that the river ahead was impassable due to its current height / width. I pressed on regardless through some very muddy lake beds and yet more rocks / sand. In Remlia the locals confirmed my worst fears and said that the river was presently un-crossable. They offered to guide me to the only possible crossing point for €50. After much negotiation I finally parted with €20 feeling like I’d been robbed….

Two lads on a small bike must have led me more than 10km North on sand, through bushes, over rocks and through numerous small streams. We made good progress and soon got to the ‘good’ crossing point. When I first saw it I was shocked. There were a few Spanish 4x4’s camped-up probably hoping that the water level would drop to make crossing a possibility for them. The river at this point was about 100m wide, fast flowing and still very deep in places. The moped boys stripped to their pants, enlisted another helper to guide us via the shallowest parts and beckoned me to start pushing. It was exhausting work, I was up to my waist in water at times and nearly dropped the bike a couple of times. I had to stop half way as I had no more strength and thought I was going to puke. Anyway, once recovered the final push was easy and we’d made it across to the other side. I took a quick photo and was shown the correct route ahead. A few kicks later the bike was running and I was off down the twisted, deeply rutted soft sand track. It was hard work but eventually I made my way out onto another rocky section where I met an old Bedouin guy who confirmed the correct route to Oum-Jrane. Soon after I met another group of lads in a Land-Cruiser who confirmed that I was heading in the correct direction.

At the next ‘hamlet’ I made the mistake of not asking directions and headed on a path that let too far to the North. The scenery was stunning but even my old GPS with just four valid waypoints knew that I was going the wrong way. As the track was fun, I’d gone pretty quickly and gone 10’s of km in the wrong direction. I eventually found a small settlement where on the map they confirmed that I was 55km away from where I should be and heading totally the wrong way. I saw a truck in the distance so caught-up with it and checked again. As light was fading and there was nothing around for miles, I decided to head North towards tarmac and civilisation. En-route I found a very remote ‘truck stop’ where I got a Coke and confirmed the best way out of the desert. After 25 tough km on what I later found out was part of a previous Paris-Dakar route, I eventually hit the road just East of Alnif. I’d done over 200km off-road on less than 9l of petrol which impressed me as I wasn’t dawdling about.

Tanked-up at the next petrol station and took the tarmac to Tazzarine where I am now camped-up. Whilst the entire day has been amazing with spectacular views / tracks / challenges – it’s really not wise to be doing this kind of thing on your own. I saw very few people all day and just a handful of 4x4’s but no other dirt bikers. Tomorrow I will attempt to find another piste to Zagora which hopefully won’t be as bad as there are no rivers on the map.

Next time I would get 100’s of way points and go with at least another rider as the risks are pretty high when you’re riding solo through remote desert areas. One crash, one serious mechanical problem and you could be in a lot of trouble or at best left sitting around for hours waiting form someone to pass by who can assist (obviously for money)……

Anyway, just finished eating my meal of 2 x Asda Curried Noodles and some great mushroom soup. Time for a well deserved sleep…

Day 3 – 125km Thursday 05/04/2012 Meski – Erfoud – Merzouga

It was a long night with the heavy rain persisting and me getting wet. The thunder cracked right through the night and I didn’t get much sleep. Cooked myself some noodles for breakfast whilst still in my sleeping bag. Thank God the sun came out so I managed to at least part dry my gear before moving on.

Made it through Erfoud into Merzouga very quickly and with no problems. The sun has come out and it’s boiling hot at last. The dunes of Erg Chebbi look superb. Have now checked into a small family run auberge made of mud/straw which is only about £13 a night with breakfast. At this price camping isn’t worth the effort especially as I want to get away quickly tomorrow to attempt my super long off-road journey to Zagora, or at least somewhere in between.

Bike has been rattling along with no problems so far, although the rear sub-frame looks bent through over-loading (no cracks yet though). Want to dump my entire luggage and have a play in the sand dunes now…….

Had a go on the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi – very, very hard work as you need to gun it all the time or you sink. That said you need to know how to ‘read’ the hardness of the different bits of sand, which I can’t, as the really soft stuff will stop you no matter what. Was a bit worried about crashing and falling down particularly the smaller dunes and breaking a collar-bone or something. As a result I took it slow over the dune crests and got stuck a lot – to get the bike out and moving again is exhausting. The hotel owner’s friend is now telling me not to do the Zagora piste on my own, it’s 280km with no fuel en-route – will be tight.